“He came from Henley, he had a thirst for rowing. I did a tweet about Opheem without then knowing, he’d take me up. Next thing we’d booked”.
And that truly awful rewrite of a Pulp classic is how I met Steve. I tweeted about Opheem’s lunch deal being great value and suggested that if anyone was without a companion, I would join them. Incredibly several people tried to take me up on the offer, and Steve was the only one I could work a date out with. My girlfriend thought it was weird to meet strangers over the internet, conveniently forgetting it’s kind of how we met. We met in a pub, he didn’t try to kill me, and then went to Opheem. Nice guy is Steve. Really nice light blue neck scarf.
I’m old hat at this booking by now. I have a favourite table to sit at, and the team know I’m going to start with a negroni. I’ve been to Opheem more than any other starred for good reason; it’s my favourite place to eat in England. Free from bullshit and pretence, it covers the bases of precision and spice better than anywhere else.
Nibbles this time includes a smoked eel macaron and a Jerusalem artichoke tartlet, alongside the more familiar strawberry and sesame ring. Milk loafs with spiced butter, then on to starters: soft shell crab for my lunch date, the potato and tamarind dish for me. Both classics in their own right. We both have the chicken for main, and this time the keema in the onion is better than ever. And that sauce. My lord that sauce. If only Boris could deliver the goods as well as this we might not be in the mess we are. We dive on to the tasting menu for an apple dessert which is clean and refreshing whilst Steve also tries the plum desserts because he’s Steve and he can do what he wants. Half a bottle of wine per person and it’s a bill of sixty quid each including a round of negroni and a tip. Opheem is the best value lunch in the city. Maybe even the country. It’ll be a 2* restaurant within three years; you mark my words. You can see the ambition in the eyes of every member of staff. Aktar wants it. They all want it.
If I’ve flown through that review it’s for good reason. Once again we’re back at a point where eating in restaurants is not permitted, and, as such, my silly little trips feel kind of irrelevant. So, I’m going to use the rest of this piece to say that if you want a taste of Opheem anytime soon, they’ve added to the ‘Aktar at Home’ range. Get the box of curries – ten or so for £60 – and feed the house over many nights, or do as we are doing and have the lamb leg from Great British Menu which comes up on occasion. Order the Sunday roast using the best beef from their sister restaurant, Pulperia, and reheat it at home, or, if you fancy yourself as a cook, take the meat box from the same place and get at least 6 meals from it. Birmingham needs places like Opheem to still be here when the pandemic is over and for that you need to support them right now. I’ll be around for Friday lunches if you want when the world returns to normal.